Used Mustang Inspection Checklist
You might be looking at an EcoBoost, a GT, or a Dark Horse if you’re lucky enough to find one. This used Mustang inspection checklist catches things a service history alone won’t show you. Work through it before you commit to any used Mustang.
Exterior and panels
Compare paint colour across every panel in good daylight. Subtle mismatches often reveal previous repair work. Run a hand along panel edges and gaps: uneven gaps or a rough repainted edge can point to accident history that wasn’t disclosed. Check window glass for matching manufacturer date stamps across all panes. A different stamp on one window usually means it’s been replaced. Look closely at wheel arches and door sills for early rust, particularly on cars that have spent time near the coast.
Tyres and wheels
Check tread depth on all four tyres, plus the spare if one’s fitted. Uneven wear across the tyre, or wear that differs noticeably between the two rear tyres, can point to a car that’s been driven hard or tracked. Mismatched tyre brands front to rear is also a small but telling sign of inconsistent maintenance.
Engine bay and mechanicals
On a V8 car, check for oil leaks around the engine-to-transmission joint. A rear main seal issue is common and can be costly to fix. On an EcoBoost, ask directly whether the car has been remapped or tuned; head gasket wear is a known risk on modified or high-mileage four-cylinder cars, less so on stock, well-maintained ones. During the test drive, the engine should pull smoothly through the rev range without hesitation, knocking, or flat spots.
If it’s a manual, the clutch bite point should sit around the middle of the pedal’s travel, with no slipping (revs rising without a matching increase in speed) or juddering when pulling away.
On an automatic, expect smooth, shudder-free changes even under load. Shuddering or harsh changes can point to neglect and wear from a lack of servicing.
Suspension and brakes
Listen for clunks or rattles over bumps, and pay attention to how the car brakes: it should pull up straight and progressively, with no pulling to one side and no spongy pedal feel. Check that the steering wheel sits centred on a straight, flat section of road.
Interior wear versus claimed mileage
Wear on the steering wheel, gear knob, and driver’s seat bolster should roughly match the odometer reading. A car with heavy wear but low claimed kilometres is worth questioning, and a shiny steering wheel cover on a low-kilometre car can sometimes be hiding exactly that. It’s also worth having a sniff around the cabin. A damp or musty smell can point to a water leak, and an overly strong air freshener is sometimes used to mask smoke or mould.
Modification red flags
Undocumented modifications matter for more than just resale value, they can affect insurance and warranty. Ask directly whether the car has had any aftermarket tuning, exhaust changes, or suspension work, and ask for documentation if so.
Undocumented modifications matter for more than just resale value, they can affect insurance and warranty.
This matters just as much for insurance purposes as it does for mechanical peace of mind.
Documentation to request: completing your inspection checklist
- Full service history: ideally from a Ford dealer or a workshop experienced with Mustangs
- A PPSR check: covering both finance owing and write-off status
- Confirmation of any outstanding recalls: checked against Ford Australia's VIN lookup tool
- Warranty transfer details: if the car is still within its factory warranty period
If you’re still weighing a used Mustang against buying new, our S650 Buyer’s Guide covers what’s different about buying new instead of used.
A cheaper alternative to an independent inspector
If you’d rather not track down an independent mechanic, most state motoring clubs offer their own pre-purchase inspection service at a set price. RACV in Victoria, NRMA in NSW, and RACQ in Queensland all run this, and equivalent clubs exist in other states too. Most are genuinely mobile, meaning an inspector comes to wherever the car is (your place, the seller’s, or a dealership) rather than you needing to drop it somewhere, which can save a fair bit of back-and-forth compared to arranging an independent inspection yourself. Availability and pricing vary by state and by inspection tier, so it’s worth checking directly with your own state’s club before booking.
Your used Mustang inspection checklist: the bottom line
None of this replaces a proper pre-purchase inspection, whether independent or through your state motoring club. But working through this checklist yourself first means you’ll walk into that inspection already knowing what to ask about, and you’ll spot a car that’s not worth pursuing before you’ve spent money finding out.